How well do you know your gold?

Gold vermeil vs gold plated: What’s the difference?

When it comes to gold jewellery and particularly when browsing online there is an overwhelming variety of choice and to anyone who doesn’t work in the jewellery or precious metals industries it can be quite confusing. What do all these different types of gold mean? You might have seen labels such as filled gold, gold vermeil and gold plating but do you know the difference between them? When shopping online or in stores it is important to ask and to know what you are buying and how best to care for it because depending on the finish and how the gold has been applied will determine how you wear, store and clean your jewellery.

To help you out we have put together some information to show you what types of gold there are and their pros and cons. Let’s put you to the test and see how well you really know your gold!

Types of gold jewellery you need to know

Gold vermeil, filled gold, and gold plated are all terms used to describe jewellery that has a layer of gold covering a base of metal. However, the difference lies in the thickness of the gold layer and the base metal used in each process.

Solid gold:

Solid gold is gold all the way through. The difference being only the purity or fineness of the gold you choose. If you had a pendant that was 18 ct gold you would have 75% gold and then a mixture of silver and possibly copper but the pendant would be made completely of precious metals through and through.

Pros: While it is expensive, gold is durable and will last forever (within reason of course depending on what you do with it) and it is naturally waterproof. Exposing gold to water won’t harm it, it won’t tarnish unlike silver and knocks and scratches can be easily repaired or polished out. Solid gold pieces can be recycled easily and gold can be worn everyday. For those with sensitive skin gold is naturally hypoallergenic and the higher the carat the less of the other alloy metals there are. Solid gold jewellery holds its value making it perfect for keeping items as heirlooms or investments and there are more options for resales.

Cons: It is expensive

Filled Gold:

Filled gold sometimes goes by other names such as rolled gold or bonded gold. Filled gold has a gold layer thicker than gold plating over a brass base. Legally the gold content must be 5% of the total weight of the metal. It is bonded mechanically to the surface of the brass by heat and pressure. It is a permanent bond so will not flake, peel or fall off.

Pros: Filled gold is an affordable alternative to solid gold, it is a better quality than plated gold with a thicker layer and will not tarnish under normal conditions. It is also resistant to heat and water like solid gold. It is hypoallergenic and can be worn daily. With due care filled gold jewellery can last up to a couple of decades.

Cons: Care must be taken not to scratch the jewellery because repairing or polishing filled gold is very difficult. In general you need to take care and avoid anything that can wear down the outer gold layer because exposing the brass core will result in tarnishing and that colour seeping through. This includes wearing harder metals like steel or platinum next to your gold filled jewellery. Cleaning with soapy liquid and a soft cloth is a good way to keep your pieces looking new and shiny but do not over clean or you might wear down the gold layer too much, likewise, be careful with chemicals such as perfumes and hairspray as this can break down the gold layer and accelerate the tarnishing process.

Gold Vermeil

Gold vermeil (pronounced ver-may) also goes by other names like silver gilt or silver gilded and is pure or sterling silver coated with a thin layer of gold. The layer is typically thicker than standard gold plating usually ranging from 2.5 to 3 microns and is applied commonly through electrolysis or another specialist process.

Pros: It balances the elegance and allure of gold but for the price of sterling silver. It has a solid silver base with a thick layer of gold so the entire item is made of precious metals and often people refer to it as demi-fine. It takes longer to wear the gold layer down to the solid silver core so it is better than plating but not as durable as gold filled. It is, however, hypoallergenic so long as the wearer does not have a silver allergy. Generally the main advantage is the durability for the affordable price tag.

Cons: Gold vermeil will still tarnish due to its silver core so if it is exposed to water or moisture this can seep into the gold layer. Getting it wet or swimming with gold vermeil jewellery should be avoided. It is also more difficult to repair or polish. Many jewellers cannot offer this service in their workshops as there are several steps involved and it is a costly process both in time and money which compared to the price of the item might not make sense. You can wear gold vermeil jewellery on a regular basis but you will need to bear in mind that it will need replating every so often and you will have to find a trusted jeweller who can do this for you. Ideally gold vermeil is best worn for special occasions and not daily.

Gold Plated

Gold plated jewellery was first discovered by scientist Luigi Brugnatelli in 1805 and is made by using electricity or chemicals to bond a very thin layer of gold to the surface of base metal, copper, silver or other alloy metals. Gold plating uses the least amount of gold amongst of all the gold finishes approximately 0.05% of gold and 0.5 to 2.5 microns in thickness.

Pros: Gold plated jewellery is much cheaper than other gold finishes on jewellery because the gold layer is incredibly thin. It is a good affordable option for trying out new styles and designs if you are unsure whether something will suit you or you want to change your jewellery collections frequently. Gold plated items are also good for traveling if you are afraid of them being lost or stolen.

Cons: Due to the very thin layer of gold, plated jewellery rubs off and wears away very quickly, therefore you would need to have it replated often which can be costly and more than the original price you paid for the item. Repairs are also very tricky and there are multiple steps involved to replate which will increase the total cost. Gold plating is also not water resistant and exposure to chemicals, water and our own natural oils in our skin and sweat will cause tarnishing. For those with sensitive skin or metal allergies plated jewellery should be avoided because once the gold layer has worn away the base metals are exposed and may cause irritations. It is not something that should be worn on a daily basis but saved for special occasions and events.

Summary:

In short, the key differences lie in the thickness of the gold layer and the base metal used. Gold filled, vermeil and plating all look similar to solid gold but they do not offer the same durability and longevity. They are great affordable options for lower budgets or fashion trends but need care and attention to maintain their appearance. They are destined to fade and do not hold their market value; you will not get very much return on selling them. Solid gold lasts, it holds its value and it is easier to repair, polish, reshape and even recycle. It maintains its colour and is much stronger and water resistant. For fine, luxury jewellery and pieces set with diamonds and coloured gemstones, solid gold is always the best way to go for ultimate quality and to ensure your stones are secure, protected and that the jewellery lasts a lifetime.