Can any ring be resized?

The simplest answer is no. Not every ring can be resized. When it comes to resizing it isn’t as straight forward as most people think. A common misconception; it isn’t just cutting the back and adding or taking away metal and soldering it together with a buff and polish to finish.

Ring resizing is one of the most common alteration tasks we are asked to do and if you buy a new Timothy Roe ring we offer a free resizing within 3 months of purchase to ensure it fits perfectly. We can also cut off rings when customers cannot get them over the knuckles anymore and we do a much cleaner and neater job on your treasures than the hospital emergency rooms or fire brigade. When it comes to resizing rings the majority we are asked to do are always sizing up. As we get older our knuckles get bigger, many people suffer from arthritis and swelling, and medicines and hormone fluctuations, water retention and having children can also affect our weight. Sometimes trauma and accidents to the hands and fingers also mean finger sizes have changed as new tissue and bone regrowth have changed their shape.

Before we make a ring smaller or larger there are many factors that need to be considered which is why we will always talk to our goldsmiths and show them the rings before we commit to a resizing and these factors are why sometimes the prices can vary. They will assess the ring in front of them on a case-by-case basis and determine the best way to resize it founded on their years of expertise and experience to make sure it still looks beautiful and to prevent future problems from arising. They will check the ring and setting to see if there are potential issues and consider how resizing may impact the overall structure. 

It’s never a one-size-fits-all approach. 

The definite NO to resizing list:

Full eternity bands
Tension set gemstone rings

Titanium bands

Tungsten rings

Gemstone carved rings

Wood or other non-precious metals

For all the other rings it is a case-by-case approach so let’s break down some of these factors to help you understand what our goldsmiths are considering when they are looking at your ring for resizing:

Important factors for resizing

Materials: 

Metal:

In theory any ring that has been made in a precious metal can be resized but theory doesn’t always translate into reality. Depending on the metal and its structure, the form it’s been molded to and the alloys that have been used in the casting of it will all determine whether or not it can be altered. Stainless steel, titanium and tungsten are almost impossible to resize because of their hardness. Getting these types off if they won’t go over the knuckle usually involves heavy duty equipment to physically crack them off. In these cases, you’d have to buy a new ring in the size you need it. If you have an accident whilst wearing one of these rings, then remove it quickly before your finger swells or you might lose your finger! Due to the process of resizing some materials cannot withstand the temperatures nor the hammering and resizing compromises the structural integrity of the ring. What carat of gold is your ring? Some lower carats if over annealed many times can become brittle. This is something the goldsmiths will look at, too. Nonmetal materials like wood or quartz cannot be reshaped or modified due to their properties. Some rings that are made of bi- or tricolour metals can also be tricky due to the different heating temperatures of the metals. A rose gold and platinum ring will have extremely different melting points and choosing the right solder can, however, result in it being noticeable on the other metal or the softer metal burning or melting. Rose gold on its own is also tricky, not for the resizing itself but for matching the colour. Different mixtures of alloys and carats will result in different hues of rose gold and often the solder is hard to blend so may be slightly noticeable on the join. Sometimes the goldsmith will need to sit with a ring for a while to consider the best method or to ascertain whether a resize is even possible.

Gemstones: 

If your ring is set with gemstones this will be something we need to consider carefully and our stone setters will check how they are set and where they are set. Pave and invisible set stones are very tricky. Placement is a factor that needs to be reviewed and whether or not unsetting, removing and then resetting the stones will need to be done. Some modern wedding bands have a middle component of opal, soft gemstones or sapphires and diamonds running through the band and for these types resizing is unfortunately not possible. This would be like an eternity band which is also not resizable. For eternity bands, taking out all the stones and without cracking or damaging them, resizing the band and resetting them and ensuring they are secure would be far too costly in time and labour and would not be successful so for these rings, like tungsten and titanium bands, buying a brand new ring in the new required size is the best option. It is easier and more cost effective to make a whole new ring. For rings set with gemstones on the shoulders the stone setters and goldsmiths will check the shank and see if any movement or reshaping will affect the stones. For tension set diamond or gemstone rings, lasers are used to measure the exact size of the gemstone so that the gap into which the diamond or gems will be placed can be set perfectly. The diamond or gemstone is pressed by the ends of the ring on each side. The metal has expertly cut, tiny grooves that grip the stone but because the gem is secured by equal pressure on either side of the band enlarging or minimizing the band can cause imbalance, increasing the risk of the stone loosening or falling out which is why tension set rings are also never resized.

Three stone diamond ring on platinum

Size:

How many sizes up or down is the ring going to need adjusting? If it is a wide plain band it may be possible to compress or stretch the metal to the size needed without adding in or cutting out metal. With stretching and compressing and a final polish the ring can be done in less time than using other methods for resizing. However, for stone set rings stretching and compressing are not used. It mostly will depend on the head (the top part where the stones sit) and how the stones are set. Going up or down a size might not be too much of a problem but going up or down several sizes might result in too much movement to the head, the gallery and collet. It may loosen the tension for these parts or for flush set stones on the sides where the risk of them falling out is greater. Increasing or decreasing the size dramatically may end up creating an oval shape instead of a round one which will affect the overall look, compromises the security of the stones and affects the comfort. In cases like these either removing the head and resetting it on a bigger or smaller shank or remaking the entire ring in the required size is probably better. For rings that are too big but cannot be easily resized there are of course other options like adding beads or ball studs in the back of the ring, ring guards and spring inserts to create resistance and grip when on the finger. The goldsmiths will consider those options as well if the shank is wide and strong enough. Depending on how many sizes and the method of approach will determine the price. Usually if more gold needs to be added for a bigger size this will be more expensive. However, making a ring smaller also doesn’t guarantee it will be less expensive. If the ring needs to be remade or the work will take more time because it is too intricate because of the design it may actually be more expensive.

Pink Sapphire on platinum

Shape:

Rings come in all shapes and widths and all look slightly different from one another. Stones will usually be set in rubovers (bezel), flush, grain, or claws inside collets (the little basket the stone sits in) and how the shank is rounded to meet these settings must be inspected properly. Is the shank tapered at the top? Is it wider at the bottom or sides? Does it have a knife edge, is it hollow or is it graduated? Does the ring have a high or low profile? For low profiles does the shank lead straight into the rubover setting? What about the head, the mount and gallery (bridge or finger bezel)? If we add metal in or take metal away will it compromise the shape at all? Are we able to blend a join into this shape easily? Will a bigger or smaller size make it look odd? Will moving and changing this shape affect the balance and top of the ring? The shape of the ring will definitely be a large influence on which route a goldsmith will take when it comes to resizing.

Style and age:

When it comes to the style and age of a ring sometimes a beautiful piece should not be altered too much in case its value is compromised. Some complex designs with intricate patterns, filigree lace work or gemstones set in certain patterns may be more challenging to resize without affecting the overall look or integrity of the piece. Some sculpted or engraved pattern work on the shoulders or the gallery might also be extremely vulnerable to polishing and filing and trying to preserve or recreate this could be costly, timely and unsuccessful. Also, with older rings different mixes of alloys were used especially in white gold and this might make them more prone to being more brittle and cracking when they are worked on. Some may be very thin in places where they have worn right down and sometimes resizing these vintage pieces can be more damaging. Remaking the ring might be a safer option. The more details on the ring means the more elements the goldsmiths will have to be aware of and factor into how they will resize it.

Existing trauma or previous modifications:

If the ring has already been resized or had modifications to it this is something our goldsmiths definitely need to know. In theory rings can be resized multiple times but each time the ring is annealed and worked, molded and formed it can weaken the overall structure. It might make the ring susceptible to cracking or snapping and especially if it has been altered by multiple jewellers each with different methods. Some metals like rose gold are prone to cracking whilst other lower carat metals can become brittle the more they are worked. It is in your best interests that we know as much as possible about the ring’s history so we can try to gauge the best approach to ensure the structural integrity of the ring. Like doctors will warn you about risks with routine surgeries, so will we. There is always a risk with a routine resizing and modifying existing rings that have undergone multiple resizes in the past or had pieces added or removed, especially ones that we did not make ourselves. If it wasn’t created at Timothy Roe Fine Jewellery, we do not know how they were cast, with which alloys, nor how they were annealed and finished, nor do we know the experience and level of expertise of the bencher who made it originally. Perhaps it was made in a factory with pre-casted parts soldered together? We also do not know what lifestyle the ring been subjected to; has it been dropped, hit, knocked multiple times? We will always strive to do our best work and be honest and transparent to ensure you can take home your beautiful ring in its new size.

Hallmarks and Engraving:

With any resize there is always the risk of losing the hallmarks and engraving. Resizing can warp, cut or stretch texts and joining, filing, polishing and buffing after soldering can erase most lighter engravings like machine and laser. Ring resizing does not include redoing lost engraving and hallmarks so if you want to retain these then additional charges and time to have this redone must be factored into the cost and length of time to do the job.

Generally, a ring should go on the finger and over the knuckle easily but have a little resistance when being pulled off. It should turn slightly at the base of the finger but not spin completely freely likewise it should not be so tight that it is squeezing the flesh or leaving heavy impressions. Ultimately how tight or lose you like to wear it is personal preference and this is only a guide. The time of year, time of day, temperature, altitude and your general health should always be considered when measuring your finger size. The best way to check if your rings need resizing is to pop into our store and have a chat with us. We can measure you, go through all your options and have our goldsmiths check your rings to see which approach on resizing is best. Jewellery is meant to be worn and enjoyed so if you have rings that no longer fit bring them in and we can see what we can do. Who knows, you might even want to combine them and create something completely new. We excel at bespoke design and are full of ideas. Come, be inspired and meet the team and see our workshop in action! We look forward to welcoming you!